Technorati, an online search engine for searching blogs, is issuing its second annual State of the Blogosphere report in 5 parts, running all this week. It’s extremely worth keeping up with, as it’s become the go-to overview on the developing world of all blogs, not just wine.
Day 1’s analysis was on Who Are the Bloggers? Technorati reports we’re mostly college graduates, and nearly half of us attended grad school. (I did.) We skew male, and have a household income above $75,000. (Ditto here.) Half of bloggers are on their second blog (I now have 2) and 59% have been blogging for more than 2 years. (I started just last May.)
Day 2, The What and Why of Blogging, asked why blogs have become so big, so fast. Technorati couldn’t really answer this question, but in interviewing bloggers they found most “consider their style to be sincere, conversational, humorous and expert.” Most bloggers do not engage in tell-all gossip, and don’t want to. I’ll offer this thought on blogging’s explosive popularity: It’s the Internet, which is the biggest thing in the world! People were addicted to the Internet before blogging got big; blogs just give them one more reason to go to their computers.
Day 3’s topic was The How of Blogging. This was of particular interest to me. I was not surprised to find that one in four bloggers spends at least ten hours a week at blogging. Nor was I surprised by this finding: “The most influential bloggers are even more prolific.” I probably spend 12-15 hours a week blogging, if you count the research that goes into the back end of a proper post. Technorati also said that bloggers are “tremendously sophisticated in leveraging the available tools to make their blogs more robust,” such as video and photos. I posted a You Tube video here a while back, and I plan to do so again, because people seemed to like it.
Day 4’s topic (today) is Blogging for Profit. Technorati addressed only one revenue stream: advertising, although surely there are other potential sources. Slightly less than half of all bloggers surveyed have no advertising, with the majority explaining they’re not interested in making money. But I know for certain that a lot of wine bloggers would like to make as much money as they can through their blogs. And I wouldn’t bet against them. They’re smart cookies. As for this blog, I don’t make a dime off it. I do not accept advertising, yet. I may look into it someday, but right now, it’s too much of a hassle.
Tomorrow’s topic is called Brands Enter the Blogosphere. I guess Technorati is referring to big companies. That’s already happening, bigtime. Here is Fortune Magazine’s list of 500 corporate blogs, defined as “active public blogs by company employees about the company and/or its products.” (I have to assume the employer companies are aware of them and approve.) They include Boeing, Google, General Motors, Xerox and Wells Fargo. And many wineries have started blogs. A blog is good public relations, and a cheap investment that could have big payoffs. The business world obviously believes there’s money to be made in blogs.
The Atlanta Constitution has an interesting article called Is beer becoming the new wine? that caught my eye, because it comes on the heels of that Gallup Poll that said how beer has opened up a double-digit lead over wine as the favorite beverage of American alcohol drinkers.
Now, wine lovers are justifiably proud of the gains their favorite beverage has made over the decades, but attached to this pride is always a little apprehension that what we all worked for so hard could be snatched away as quickly as, well, Lehman Brothers’ profits. America is at heart not a wine-drinking culture like Italy or Spain or France, but a beer and hard spirits one (or a tee-totaling one, but that’s a different story). Ale and moonshine are what our country was built on (Thomas Jefferson’s penchant for Yquem notwithstanding), and for all wine’s popularity, you just have to look at the way (mainly) Republicans refer to its effeteness to realize that a lot of people look at wine as something drunk in elite, affected San Francisco, not the heartland. Hell, when Hillary tried to prove during the Primaries she had cojones, it wasn’t an amusing little Pinot Grigio she sipped, but a frosty mug of brewsky.
You chug, girl!
Beer and wine have always been on opposite sides of the great divide in America’s social wars, with beer laying claim to the working class — and that Gallup Poll suggests that, in tough economic times, the working class’s collar is a little bluer and more frayed than usual.
So for the Atlanta Constitution to suggest that beer is the new wine is a little scary. Slate had a similar story last year, and NBC’s Today morning show even had a segment on “beer is the new wine” in which an editor at Food & Wine made food-pairing suggestions. In that Constitution article, they said how the chef at a popular restaurant was pairing rainbow trout stuffed with smoked oysters and bacon over sweet potato hash and crispy fried leeks with a German-style malt called Twain’s Autumnfest.
Now wait a minute! Beer can’t have it both ways. It can’t be blue collar, C&W and chewin’ tobacco one minute, then turn around and be the twinkle-toed partner for some fancy pants chef’s expensive, precious entree the next. Sarah Palin won’t stand for it, and you don’t want to get on gun-totin’ Sarah’s bad side, especially with that heartbeat-away thing we may have to deal with pretty soon. I have it on reliable authority that the only food Todd Palin would ever eat with beer is pickled eggs and moose jerky.
Sorry for the Sarah segue! Sometimes I just can’t help myself. All I wanted to say is that beer isn’t a threat to wine. Ask any winemaker, especially during harvest, when they bring the suds in by the tanker. Beer, wine, it’s all good. I’d rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.
Two days ago I blogged about the British television program Dispatches’ “exposé” about additives in wine. I explained how the show had created a furor in Merrie Olde England, and how the hysteria is likely to find its way here. Now, the brouhaha is going global. Decanter yesterday headlined with this stating that the “Wine world [is] outraged at Channel 4 ‘Dispatches’ doc.” Down under in Oz, the head of that country’s Wine and Brandy Corporation called the program “a beat up … It’s like saying ‘shock horror, cars are made of metal and plastic’ – what do people expect?”
This tempest, which may not be confined for long to a teapot, got me thinking. At first, I was tempted to conclude that the Dispatches show was just one more sorry example of Gotcha! “journalism” [think: Mondovino], the desperate sortie of a producer trying to drum up controversy (which drums up advertising). But the more I ponder the situation, the more I see how it relates to an inter-related web of far bigger issues. A few month ago, in a post at my Wine Enthusiast blog on “why everything tastes like everything else”, I referred to a phenomenon I called Stocalism. I suggested that, with everybody in California now using the same consulting winemakers and vineyard managers, we’re getting “a sameness of character” that is very apparent to someone like me, who tastes close to 4,000 wines a year.
In researching this posting, I came across a term I was unfamiliar with: alcopop. Wikipedia defines it as a derisory term used to describe cheap, fruity-alcoholic drinks aimed primarily at young people, but the word has migrated over to describe a certain style of wine. See, for example, this, from the online Australian tabloid MailOnline, which links the term “alcopop” with another wine-derisory word I blogged about last June, Frankenwine, referring to genetically-modified grapes and their resulting wines.
So we have a continuum: Frankenwine … alcopop … and, now, additives. They are three links in a chain, or perhaps the better metaphor is three weights on the scale of growing public concern over what we put into our bodies. The first two weights may not have been enough to politically tilt the balance. The third weight — additives — may just send it reeling, when the debate breaks into public consciousness. As I wrote two days ago, the coming battle over TTB’s impending decision on mandatory allergen labeling is going to be the wine industry’s equivalent of the Ultimate Fighting Championship. Both sides had better get into condition, starting now.
Tom Wark, at Fermentation, alerted us yesterday to the British newpaper Telegraph’s article on “unauthentic ingredients” in wine in the form of oak chips, but this was only the visible tip of a gigantic iceberg roiling the waters in Great Britain over the use of additives, and about to spill over bigtime to our shores.
In what looks like a testing of the waters, the defense of the use of wine additives a few days ago by the CEO of Britain’s largest wine industry lobbying group, The Wine and Spirit Trade Association, signaled that the alcoholic beverage industry is taking seriously threats to require labels to disclose all the ingredients in the bottle, and is fighting back.
The CEO of the 320-member group of producers, wholesalers, bottlers, retailers and others, Jeremy Beadles, told Channel 4’s Dispatches (a kind of Sixty Minutes program) that “The winemaking process is governed by strict regulations designed to ensure products meet stringent health and safety standards.” Dispatches aired a segment highly critical of additives, of which the European Union allows at least 50, in the form of flavorings, preservatives, enzymes, fining agents and so on. The Dispatches program provoked a storm of controversy throughout England, with bloggers like Jamie Goode yesterday slamming Channel 4 for producing “a desperately poor programme,” while consumers praised it for alerting them to facts previously unknown. Check out this commentary from Jane Moore, a columnist for The Sun newspaper, who’s in favor of complete disclosure on labels. She wrote, “One producer told us it [disclosure] would be tantamount to ‘commercial suicide,’ presumably because it might put the customer off and result in lower sales.”
On this side of the pond, Bonny Doon’s Randall Grahm famously came out for full label disclosure last December. The federal Tax and Trade Bureau issued a proposal of rulemaking (Notice No. 62, updated by No. 64) that would require disclosure of all potential “allergens,” which seems to be simply a synonym for additives. Wine Institute, California’s leading association of producers, strongly opposes such a new law, as evidenced by this remarkable 34-page letter to TTB from Wine Institute’s President, Robert P. Koch.
At this point, Wine Institute’s Gladys Horiuchi says she has no idea when or if TTB will issue their final ruling. But TTB spokesman Art Resnick says there will be one, sooner or later. The holdup: the Food and Drug Administration is holding hearings on its Food Allergen Awareness program, “and we [TTB] need to be consistent with what FDA does,” Resnick asserts. TTB, in other words, is dotting its “i”s and crossing its “t”s so they can build up a scientifically airtight case for mandatory disclosure. With heavyweights like TTB and Wine Institute squaring off, the food allergy lobby mobilizing, and bloggers just waiting to stir things up, this smackdown is going to be interesting.
I caught up with the comedic legend in Ontario, where he started the Canadian branch of his Dan Aykroyd Discovery Series wines last December. He’s set to launch the Boisset project at a press briefing this Thursday. They’ll be producing Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay at Boisset-owned DeLoach. Both wines will retail below $20 and sell in the 6,000-case range.
SH: What’s your plan with the California wines?
DA: What I’m doing is taking the template of what we’ve done here in Canada, to go to the consumer with a product that’s something I would drink and be proud to put on my table. The idea is the consumer sees my name and knows if he pays $19, $20 he’ll get a good wine experience.
Will you increase production?
That will depend on the consumer’s appetite.
You’re making Cabernet and Chardonnay but not Pinot Noir, which is really what both DeLoach and Boisset are known for.
I’m not a Pinot fan! I love the heavier grape. If he [Jean-Charles] wants to convince me to do a Pinot, it would have to be one I like. I like those big heavy Bordeaux reds and these Chards.
There’s a lot of competition out there nowadays, even for celebrity wines.
I know, and I like it, because we have so many things to compare with. So I’m glad our standards are high. It gives us the opportunity to shoot for these price points and this quality.
Do you collect wine?
My cellar is pretty depleted after my entertaining this summer, but it’s Haut-Brions, Lynch-Bages, Talbots in reds, and in white, Puligny, Chassagne.
Any California in your cellar?
I love Diamond Creek, and some Kendall-Jackson. Dave Ready, Jr. [Murphy-Goode] is a star, and Turley wines, I love those.
I read you might do a beer.
Well, the beer I’m most interested is [Venezuela-produced] Polar, which was in the movie Miami Nights, with Alec Baldwin. I want to import it. Trouble is, Venezuelan companies aren’t talking to American entrepreneurs. So this is a terrible development. But I don’t want to be a manufacturer of beer.
The press release says you’ll be personally involved in the selection process. What does that mean?
That means I’ll sit with Jean-Charles, do some tasting with his winemakers, and say “Push it a little more this way.” I’d like to come out of there with a wine that tastes like [Diamond Creek] Gravelly Meadow.
Then would you ever do a Napa Valley wine?
I think the Napa story’s been told. It’s a beautiful story, but I’d like to break Sonoma out a little more and turn the world on to what’s coming out of there.
Do you think people are more likely to buy a wine from a celebrity? Why?
I think because celebrities can afford quality, and they know great wines, and so can speak with some authority on what they like, because they’re paying a premium for it. I know what I like and I think we can hit a target in there for a very good price point so the American supermarket consumer can go out and entertain 10 people for the weekend and not overpay.
Any chance we’ll see a Ghostbusters wine? I thought about doing a Conehead wine, something with a little humor. At this point, I’ll see how the Aykroyd brand sells. A Ghostbuster wine would have to be like a Pinot Grigio. It would be a great branding opportunity.