MGM, the Hollywood movie studio that brought us stars such as Clark Gable, Greta Garbo, Errol Flynn, Katharine Hepburn and Judy Garland, as well as legendary films that included The Wizard of Oz, Ben-Hur and Singin’ in the Rain, just celebrated its 90th anniversary. No major film studio in history has shaped the American film as much as MGM.
Ninety years ago–1924–there wasn’t much going on in the wine business. The country was stuck in the middle of one of the most disastrously stupid political and social blunders in our history, Prohibition, wrought upon us by some of the same reactionary forces that still rear their heads today. While a few wineries, such as Beauiieu, managed to remain in business by producing altar wine, most California wineries closed up shop forever.
(Isn’t it interesting that the only reason wineries were permitted by those reactionary forces to stay open was for making wine for religious institutions? But then, for a nation whose First Amendment to the Constitution includes the famous “establishment clause,” which prohibits the formal “establishment of religion” by the Congress, the U.S. has always been leaky when it comes to religious intrusion into our laws.)
Once Prohibition ended, the California wine industry restored to health or newly developed its own legendary superstars. Compared to, say, Fred Astaire and Jimmy Stewart, I suppose Louis M. Martini, Inglenook, Beaulieu and Charles Krug weren’t exactly known and loved by tens of millions of loyal fans. But still, they, and others, kept the flame burning, until the 1960s and 11970s ignited a wildfire of boutique wineries that really did capture the nation’s attention. And here we are today.
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Yesterday’s rain was pretty healthy. SFO had nearly an inch, but most of the Bay Area clocked in with less than a half-inch, and the further south you go, the less rain fell. Up in the Sierra, they had a couple feet, depending on which mountain you measure; but still, the morning paper describes the rain as “a drop in the bucket” with one meteorologist saying California will need rains “of Biblical proportions” to get us out of this drought, the worst ever. So efforts at water restriction are still coming on, and grapegrowers are still wondering what it all means for them. Yesterday’s storm was pretty much unpredicted, as was the cold that accompanied it. It seems to have blown in from nowhere, proving once again that long-range weather forecasts have their limits.
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Big changes at the San Francisco Chronicle’s Wine & Food Section are afoot. The paper is shutting down the satellite office that housed Jon Bonné, Michael Bauer & Co. and bringing them back to the Mother Ship, at Fifth and Mish (as we say, short for Mission Street). That’s a bummer; with the demise of the Chron’s test kitchen, the paper will no longer run recipes (!!!). But management promises that food and wine coverage will not only continue, but be expanded, which is great news. Now, if we can only get Jon to give as much love to California wine as he does to, say, mead and orange wine, the paper will be truly representative of the region it serves.
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A quick shoutout to the Feb. 8 River Road Passport, the big tasting of Monterey County wines produced along the base of the Santa Lucia Highlands. It’s a good event to get off the beaten path and discover some of the charming wines from this region. Not all of the Highlands’ best wineries are represented, but that’s always the case with these public events. Some of the more in-demand wineries want to stay that way–in-demand–and not showcasing your stuff to the public is one way to maintain the illusion of exclusivity.