Paso Robles, SLO collaboration a sign of the times
The winery organizations of Paso Robles and San Luis Obispo County last night held a promotional dinner in San Francisco, the first time the organizations had collaborated, in a move that could mark a new era of increasing cooperation between such entities.
The dinner, at Spruce, was hosted jointly by the Paso Robles Wine County Alliance and the San Luis Obispo Vintners Association. Both have in the past “done their own thing,” so to speak, although the former has, in my experience, been much busier in hosting consumer events, while the latter — SLO County — has been a bit reticent.
It seemed to me there must have been a reason why the two organizations finally decided to get together — and it’s pretty obvious what the reason was and is: the economy, and the dour state of the wine industry. Tensions between rival wine regional organizations are nothing new, of course. Look at the skirmishes over Sonoma County’s new conjunctive labeling law, which is likely to be signed into law by the Governor any day now. (I blogged about it last month.)
I think in the case of Paso Robles and SLO County, Paso did such a good job establishing its reputation over the last ten years that they must have thought there was little to be gained, and perhaps much to be diluted, by conjoining themselves and their reputation to that of the county as a whole. And for that, you have to credit the P.R.W.C.A. and its skilled leadership, not to mention the vintners of Paso Robles. They’ve done a really tremendous job.
As for SLO County itself, my hunch is that they felt they didn’t really need to market themselves. Instead, they seemed to let their appellations — Edna Valley and Arroyo Grande Valley — and the fine wineries within them speak for themselves. SLO County placed its bet, as it were, on being a cool climate wine region, and it may be that they wanted to distance themselves from Paso Robles, which is perceived as hot.
But those calculations were thrown overboard when the economic climate turned sour. I don’t know who approached whom, in this case — who did the wooing and who was the wooed. I don’t know if any of the member wineries on either side said, Wait a minute, this isn’t really that good a deal for us. Certainly last night, all was happiness between the representatives of the two regions.
The bottom line is that everybody has to work together to get us through this mess. I know there’s always going to be some residual tension between regional organizations, especially those that are contiguous or nearly so, or in the same county. There’s rivalry between Napa and Sonoma, even between Rutherford and Oakville. But it’s a healthy rivalry, like the Red Sox and the Yankees — good for both teams, good for baseball.
The one thing I wonder about, in the case of SLO County, is whether the idea of an entire county marketing itself makes sense anymore. Counties are so big. They contain multitudes of terroirs. In every winegrowing county there are many rooms, each different, which makes it harder for a county to present a coherent message about its wines. In SLO’s case, aside from Paso Robles, they do have the Arroyo Grande and Edna valleys, which are utterly distinct places, within themselves and compared to each other. When you promote SLO County, does that tend to diminish Arroyo Grande and Edna? If SLO’s reputation rises, will wineries within Arroyo Grande and Edna be tempted to put SLO on the label, instead of their smaller valleys? Will we see conjunctive labeling come to SLO the way it did to Sonoma?
This all signifies that California’s appellations and the system in which they operate are undergoing profound changes. Regional leaders are rethinking their approach to almost everything related to marketing and P.R. In an economy as tough as this, they’ve got to pull every rabbit out of every hat they possibly can. There will be mistakes made, but I think it’s a good thing that the regional associations are showing greater signs of cooperation than in the past, and I applaud Paso Robles and SLO County for taking this step.